Touring, Movies

Wendy Thompson Hut, Marriott Basin

Another year, another hut trip. 2017 was the Year of the Coast Mountains in British Colombia. The Wendy Thompson Hut was nearly booked full when we decided to make reservations in late summer but we managed to score 5 days in for the beginning of March and score we did. After a drought that seemed to last most of January and February with a few exceptions, the snow returned in a major way the week…
Touring, Movies, Snoqualmie Pass

Commonwealth Basin, Snoqualmie Pass

Car window got smashed weeks ago, too cold to drive without it. David picks me up dark and early. We pick up where the late night text storm left off… Where we going today? Definitely the pass. Snow is dry, low density blower. So it’s a question of how big… How far? How committed? The debate commences and hardly abates when we stop for Brian at the P&R. The truck feels smaller now. Three egos battling…
North Cascades, Stevens Pass, Touring

Arrowhead Mountain, Stevens Pass

What started as an idea to make a solid attempt to take on Jim Hill Mountain turned, out to be a relaxed post Christmas tour to Arrowhead Mountain. A much needed tour after a few days regaling of old Christmas past with family and friends. The weight of honey ham, seasonal meats and cheese, and a few many holiday spirits needed to escape our bodies in exchange for a solid tour. We started out at…
North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Touring

Mt Herman, Stoneman Couloir

Alright! Time to break the long silence with the first snowboard trip report of the season. Did you miss us? We went up Table Moutain and Herman a couple weeks ago but it didn’t quite warrant a write up. Fast forward to today and once again we were heading out of the upper lot at the resort around 9am. The snow around Bagley Lakes has been hit hard with tracks since the last storm but…
Climbing

The Chief via Squamish Buttress

Turquoise water was white-capping on the left as a massive chunk of granite came into view on the opposite side of the road. The thousand foot walls of grey granite occasionally streaked black with lichen stood proud over the valley. This is bigger than I remember, I thought to myself. Or maybe I was just looking closer this time… It started as it always does, with mutual acknowledgment of an open weekend and an ambition…
Climbing, Stevens Pass

Prusik Peak, West Ridge

The great debate, skiing vs snowboarding, Hillary vs. Trump, is OJ Simpson innocent? And then the big one; to approach Prusik Peak from Snow Lake or from Colchuck Lake. Certainly there are merits to both but in this increasingly partisan world, people have picked their approach and climbing teams all over the Northwest and beyond have been ripped apart by their inability to see the other side. On one hand you have Colchuck Lake; less…
Climbing

Cutthroat Wall, Easy Getaway: No Surrender

20 years from now, Sam and I will say we were there, there at the birth of a classic… I’d be lying if I claimed that thought was going through my head as I down-climbed towards the middle of pitch two after an ill conceived foray and subsequent fall in lichen laden territory on the Cutthroat Wall. As Sam belayed from above, and I placed gear on our retreat, the team next door was rapping…
Mt Hood, Touring

Mt. Hood, Old Chute

Despite the unbeatable weather, when we pulled into Timberline Sunday morning the stoke level was at an unusual low. We were both feeling the effects of a short night, and pulling our packs out of the car brought the unfortunate realization that we only had one pair of crampons between the two of us. This was especially disappointing as we had tried unsuccessfully to summit this mountain multiple times, and were now determined to finally…
Climbing

Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space

What originally was planned as a weekend mission out to climb Leavenworth, became a day trip to do Outer Space when the weather went sideways. Turns out we missed a nasty day on Saturday too. The guy at the shop in town said “it just doesn’t rain like that here often”. However by Sunday it had all blown through so we cruised out there to take advantage of the second longest day of 2016. We left…
North Cascades, Climbing, Touring

Mt. Shuksan, North Face

Summary They told us the approach would be hell this late in the season. It was, but we’ll never admit it. The Details Car to Base of White Salmon Glacier, 4:00-7:15 We parked at the gate to White Salmon Lodge, left the car at 4am and walked the road past the lodge to the base of Chair 8. There was plenty of snow. Material online and on paper described two ways forward from here. The first has you traverse…
Touring, Mt. Rainier

Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger

This one has been in the works for a month or two but this last weekend we finally got our schedules to line up with a weather window so the Fuhrer Finger was a go. Chris and Colby drove in from Utah on Friday and camped out, so Sam and I met them in the Paradise parking lot Saturday morning around 9:00 am. We spent a couple hours arguing over gear and drinking beers at…
Touring, Movies, Central Cascades

Cashmere Mountain, Questionmark Coilour

It was with variable spring weather in the forecast that Tim and I started game planning a Sunday tour. Originally looking at the goat rocks region, notice of a washed out road changed our plans. We started looking east and found decent weather as close by as Leavenworth. With icicle creek road bare and dry we opted for a tour off its flanks. Cashmere seemed to be a good option. We tied up the hiking…