• Cutthroat Wall, Easy Getaway: No Surrender

    Cutthroat Wall, Easy Getaway: No Surrender

    20 years from now, Sam and I will say we were there, there at the birth of a classic… I’d be lying if I claimed that thought was going through my head as I down-climbed towards the middle of pitch two after an ill conceived foray and subsequent fall in lichen laden territory on the…

  • Mt. Hood, Old Chute

    Mt. Hood, Old Chute

    Despite the unbeatable weather, when we pulled into Timberline Sunday morning the stoke level was at an unusual low. We were both feeling the effects of a short night, and pulling our packs out of the car brought the unfortunate realization that we only had one pair of crampons between the two of us. This…

  • Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space

    Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space

    What originally was planned as a weekend mission out to climb Leavenworth, became a day trip to do Outer Space when the weather went sideways. Turns out we missed a nasty day on Saturday too. The guy at the shop in town said “it just doesn’t rain like that here often”. However by Sunday it had…

  • Mt. Shuksan, North Face

    Mt. Shuksan, North Face

    Summary They told us the approach would be hell this late in the season. It was, but we’ll never admit it. The Details Car to Base of White Salmon Glacier, 4:00-7:15 We parked at the gate to White Salmon Lodge, left the car at 4am and walked the road past the lodge to the base of Chair 8. There…

  • Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger

    Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger

    This one has been in the works for a month or two but this last weekend we finally got our schedules to line up with a weather window so the Fuhrer Finger was a go. Chris and Colby drove in from Utah on Friday and camped out, so Sam and I met them in the…

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